Friday, July 29, 2005

o solo mio

hola compadres,

so, here I am in Sucre, the administrative capital of Bolivia (La Paz being the "de facto" capital). I{ve gotta say that this place is absolutely great. First of all, the weather is glorious: this makes a nice change from the artic temperatures that I have experienced over the past couple of weeks/months. At last, I can walk around in a T-shirt and shorts and generally bask in the sun. Secondly, the city is really beautiful. It{s whitewashed houses with their tuscan roofs are a UNESCO World Heritage site and its easy to understand why. Thirdly, I{m in a great hostel. Its a really nice Spanish colonial style building with courtyards and passageways and great people. Its very expensive though, at 2 euros a night, I won{t be staying here long, hehe.

When I arrived in Uyuni, I literally jumped onto another bus straight to Sucre... well, I say straight, but in reality I mean to Sucre via Outer Mongolia. I went with the two Irish girls from the Salar trip and we had a five hour ride to Potosi first, on a road that was as much a road as I am a smoked salmon sambo. I got the livin bejayzus shaken out of me for those five hours. We were relieved when we got to Potosi, but we had to sit in the bus from 1am in the morning until 7am in the station while we waited for it to leave for Sucre. To say it was feckin artic is quite the understatement: I wore every ounce of clothing that I have as well as my sleeping bag. Finally, we left for Sucre at 7am and arrived via a fairly decent road at about 10am in the morning.

Being the complete gobshite that I am, I hadnt written down the address of my hostel so I had to treck around looking for an internet cafe, decked out with in all my glory with the biggest and heaviest rucksack in the history of travel. (thats another post alltogether). Eventually, I got to my hostel, had a two hour long hot, hot, hot shower and slept like a baby in clean sheets after three days of cold-induced insomnia.
But now Im here, and I think that I[ll stay here for a bit while I sort myself out with an itinerary for Bolivia. (Plan to stay here for about a month).

When you{re travelling, the choice of hostel that you stay in is of upmost importance. It WILL dictate how much you enjoy yourself in a place. It also depends on what mood you happen to be in. If you are all boozed out, and want a couple of days of tranquil existance, then you do not go for the party hostel, but rather something slightly quieter with a more "mature" clientele. But mostly, you look for a hostel with a capacity between 30 and 60 (not too quiet but not too impersonal either, don{t like "factory" hostels), one with good showers and clean rooms, where the people will be nice and "easy" to get to know.

This whole "easy to get to know" lark is h-actually important too. When youre travelling on your own, you obviously need to get to know people or you will be a lonely little bunny. To get to know people quickly and easily, you have to be more open to new people than you would otherwise be at home. You know the way, when you{re in work, and theres a new face around, sometimes you pass them in the corridor with a "I should know you but I don{t" kind of look. Or when you are in the elevator with another random person in an otherwise closely knit environment... there{s this kind of awkward silence. Well, it can be the same thing in a hostel, you see the same people around and pass them all the time, giving them a kind of faint smile.
I have found that if you just go over to people and say something like "by the way, I[m Conor, whats your name" or something along those lines, then you can instead pass them and say "hey jimbob whats the craic". It make you and them feel more comfortable. Nine times out of ten, if you introduce yourself randomly, you get a very positive response cos the chances are that the other people are feeling the awkwardness too. And you make for a much better environment.

When you meet people for the first time, you usually have a fairly standard conversation along the lines of "Nationality? Name? Where have you been so far? Where are going next?" etc. etc. blah, blah! Sometimes this can be a little bit monotonous, and you would really be better off printing it all on a T-shirt to save your time. But its usually a necessary step, although sometimes you just jump into some obscure conversation without knowing anything about your partner.

Obviously sometimes you meet complete bastards, but for the most part you meet great people and end up doing great stuff with them.

When I got to my hostel here in Sucre, the second I got there I was invited out with a crowd for dinner and we had a great night. Last night, we took it easy with chicken and chips and a dvd (Be Cool, the followy-upper to Get Shorty, quite an entertaining flick) and tonite I{m going out to a Chineser with some other people.

Anyway, thats enough about the dynamics of solo travel. I booked myself into two hours of Spanish course tomorrow to answer some of my long term questions and maybe learn a new tense or how to use pronouns or something... but the only time that was still available was 9am so must take it easy tonite.

So, I promise that I{ll update with photos as soon as I fill my memory card... (by the way, for my retard family, there are lots of photo albums on the toolbar to the right at the bottom)

Hasta luego compadres, and as always feel free to comment... Pics of Sucre here

PS: Finished "A portrait of the artist as a young man" today... I feel like I should get a medal or a trophy or something.... its the national enquirer for at least the next couple of weeks.

Tuesday, July 26, 2005

Funny Hats

hey dudarinos,

so I have just arrived in Uyuni, Bolivia after three days crossing the Bolivian Altiplano (flatlands above 4000 metres) from Chile. It was a frickin fantastic three days but I am well and throughly shagged from head to toe. Up in the Altiplano it is sunny during the day with the clearest bluest skies... but if theres a wind blowing, then its quite cold. However, at night it gets frickin artic to say the least, on the first night it dropped to minus 25 celsius. These Bolivianos havent heard of heating so nighttime is a bit of a nightmare to say the least.

During the day we saw loads of cool stuff: more flamingos and llamas (I have llamas coming out my ears), also lots of different colour mountain lagoons and other generally mountainous stuff.

The highlight of the trip was the Bolivian salt plains though. These are plains of salt (from old salt lakes pushed up from the ocean yonks ago) that stretch for 12500 square kilometres (half the size of Belgium). The "Salar de Uyuni" is the biggest salt plain in the world. There is no perspective when youre out there so it makes for some funny photos (to be posted in the near future)...

On the second night we stayed in a hotel made entirely of salt, pretty cool (literally, very frickin cool). But the salt does isolate a little bit so it wasn{t as cold as the first night. Its also ridiculously dry and I have a serious case of dandruff... on my lips!!!

Luckily enough, I did the tour with a great group as well, a belgian couple and two irish birds and we had great craic. Our driver was also a laugh and we had a nice cook who did some great meals (llama for lunch today).

Anyway, my bus is leaving soon enough so I have to rock and roll... will update with photos once I have chilled out in Sucre a bit.

Oh yeah, and the old women here wear these crazy assed top hat type thingys like from the 18 century.. hence the title of this post.... (for those of you who were wondering)!

Hasta luego!!!! (Photos of the trip here)

Saturday, July 23, 2005

Disjointed Thoughts

I am extraordinarily pissed off right now... I had just written a small novel that I was about to post up on this frickin´ blog, when I pressed some button on the keyboard that powered down the computer automatically... Please do not ever, ever buy anything from the company Olidata, because these stupid motherfuckers place a key on their keyboards (next to the Enter key) that powers down everything immediately... How fucking stupid can you be.... They must let monkeys design their keyboards. Anyway, needless to say, by the time that I had powered her back up again, my lifeswork was gone ... just like that ... oblivion... !

So here is a short, unamusing version of my life since my last update: from El Calafate (Glaciers etc.) to Ushaia (Tierra del Fuego, end of the earth, blah, blah, blah...) From Ushuaia, a cheap flight to Bariloche in the Argy Alps (or Andes if you like)... Deadly fun for a week in Bariloche skiing and apres-skiing. From there, I cross the Andes to Santiago (stopping off in a volcano on the way up). Was very wrecked after my weeks skiing, so very quiet week in Santiago reading books and going to bed early-ish...

Chile is very long and narrow. In the south, you freeze your titz off and dance around on glaciers and in the north you fry in the desert by day and break the icecles off your eyelids by night. So, only really the centre of Chile is inhabitable, and that is where Santiago is and where the majority of the Chileans live...

I was never going to stay in Chile for very long cos its ridiculously pricey compared with the rest of South America... However, I didn´t want to just burn right through it, so I went for the easy option of a tour of the north from Santiago through the Atacama desert to San Pedro de Atacama beside the Bolivian border...

It was a good call, because I was in a bus with seven other cool people for five days and saw most of whats good to see in the north... (the others were from Canada, England, Scotland, Brasil and Portugal)... At night, we either stayed in hostels or camped or stayed in chalets and we had great nights barbequeing, boozing etc. etc.... (Photos here)

Pretty much have my fill of desert now: amazing sunsets, sunrises, desert lagoons with flamingoes, lots of sand and rocks, the moon at night (and sometimes during the day), some llamas sometimes, salt plains, the stars at night... and a partridge in a pear tree.

Anyway, my next plan is to break for the Bolivian border tomorrow in a three-day 4x4 tour ending up in Uyuni near the Salt Plains. Can´t wait to hit Bolivia and the Bolvian prices... don´t have any kind of a plan yet, but am generally looking for somewhere to do some volunteer work and stuff like that.

Am reading James Joyce at the moment (the intellectual that I am), more specifically "A portrait of the artist as a young man". Apparantly Joyce invented the "stream of consciousness" style of writing with this book, whereby he describes thoughts as they enter the narrators head, no matter how useless and random they may be. So please don´t be put off if some of this has rubbed off onto my blog. Either way, its doesn´t matter, cos´ I still have to collect my laundry.

Oh yeah, and I haven´t had a warm shower in a week... you may think that thats all right when you´re in the desert, but you would be surprised how cold the desert can get. The room where I´m sleeping tonite goes down to about three or four degrees at night, and outside it goes down to minus five or seven, so when you get up in the morning and go out to the outhouse thats supposed to be a shower, you actually have to wait for the ice in the pipes to melt before you go for your shower...

So, dunno how conjusive (condusive?) Bolivia is to writing blogs... so I may not update for a while, but I´ll try my best (where have you heard that one before, huh?)

Anyway, I´m going to get some grub, I better post this frickin´ thing before I press that monkey key again ( I just nearly did )... Hasta luego